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A beautiful natural habitat in the backyard can be more than a visual wonder, but also a delightful family learning experience, and perhaps even a great hobby. WHEN PLANTING LARGE TREES, please try those indigenous to your state. American Elm are nearly extinct. You might want to try finding one. Walnut, Ash, Hickory, Dogwood, Wild Black Cheery, Hard Maple, Red Birch are all great choices to help preserve American species. In Missouri, nearly every pine tree had been eradicated by the early 1900’s. Today, planting pines would be a wonderful choice. As a young man, during one weekend visit, my  wife and I helped my parents plant a couple dozen 6” starter pines that had been distributed free by the Missouri State Department of Conservation on their twelve acres of land surrounding the country home that overlooked the Missouri River. Today, the land and home has long since been sold. My father has passed away and my mom is in assisted living, but now those tiny trees have grown healthy and strong, standing between 30 to 40 feet tall. Even though I live in Nevada now, their heritage will always remain a thing of pride for me.

THE BACKYARD POND

A pond or water garden COULD become the most beautiful focal point of your backyard. Read ABOVE LINK FOR HELP FROM THE USDA.

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HOME GARDENING BELOW

Cabbage

Varieties | When to Plant | Spacing & Depth | Care | Harvesting | Common Problems | Growing Q&A | Selection & Storage | Nutrition & Health | Preparing & Serving | Home Preservation | Recipes

Cabbage is a hardy vegetable that grows especially well in fertile soils. There are various shades of green available, as well as red or purple types. Head shape varies from the standard round to flattened or pointed. Most varieties have smooth leaves, but the Savoy types have crinkly textured leaves.

Cabbage is easy to grow if you select suitable varieties and practice proper culture and insect management. Always regarded as a good source of vitamins, cabbage recently has been shown to have disease-preventive properties as well.

Recommended%20Varieties

Green cabbage is grown more often than the red or Savoy types, but red cabbage has become increasingly popular for color in salads and cooked dishes. The Savoy varieties are grown for slaw and salads. Varieties that mature later usually grow larger heads and are more suitable for making sauerkraut than the early varieties. All the varieties listed here are resistant to fusarium wilt ("yellows") unless otherwise indicated. All are hybrid varieties unless marked OP, for open-pollinated variety.

Green Cabbage

Cheers (75 days to harvest; solid round heads; tolerant to black rot and thrips)

Early Jersey Wakefield (OP - 63 days; pointed heads; stands well; resists splitting)

King Cole (74 days; large; firm; extremely uniform heads)

Savoy Cabbage

Savoy King (85 days to harvest; dark, green color; very uniform)

Savoy Queen (88 days; 5 pounds; deep green color; good heat tolerance)

Red Cabbage

Red Meteor (75 days to harvest; firm; good for all seasons)

Ruby Ball (71 days; 4 pounds; slow to burst; resists both cold and heat)

When%20to%20Plant

Transplant early cabbage soon enough that it matures before the heat of summer. Many varieties are available and two or three varieties with different maturities can provide harvest over a long period. Hardened plants are tolerant of frosts and can be planted among the earliest of cool-season garden vegetables. Cabbage is easily transplanted from either bare-root or cell-pack-grown plants. Late cabbage must be started during the heat of mid-summer, but it develops its main head during the cooling weather of fall. It may be transplanted or seeded directly in the garden. In summer, if possible, place seed flats or seedbeds where some protection from the sun is available, either natural or artificial. Try especially hard during this season to transplant on cloudy, overcast or rainy days for minimizing shock from the direct sun of summer.

Spacing%20&%20Depth

Space plants 12 to 24 inches apart in the row, depending upon the variety and the size of head desired. The closer the spacing, the smaller the heads. Early varieties are usually planted 12 inches apart in all directions. Early varieties produce 1 to 3 pound heads and later varieties produce 4 to 8 pound heads. Sow cabbage seed 1/4 to 1/2 inch deep. Keep the seeds moist and thin or transplant the seedlings to the desired spacing. The plants removed may be transplanted to another row or flat.

Care

Use starter fertilizer when transplanting and side-dress with nitrogen fertilizer when the plants are half grown. Cultivate shallowly to keep down weeds. Ample soil moisture is necessary throughout the growing season to produce good cabbage. Irrigation is especially important in fall plantings to help the young plants withstand the intense sunlight and heat of summer and to supply the developing heads with sufficient water to develop quickly.

Harvesting

Cabbage can be harvested anytime after the heads form. For highest yield, cut the cabbage heads when they are solid (firm to hand pressure) but before they crack or split. When heads are mature, a sudden heavy rain may cause heads to crack or split wide open. The exposed internal tissue soon becomes unusable. Harvest and salvage split heads as soon as possible after they are discovered.

In addition to harvesting the mature heads of the cabbage planted in the spring, you can harvest a later crop of small heads (cabbage sprouts). These sprouts develop on the stumps of the cut stems. Cut as close to the lower surface of the head as possible, leaving the loose outer leaves intact. Buds that grow in the axils of these leaves (the angle between the base of the leaf and the stem above it) later form sprouts. The sprouts develop to 2 to 4 inches in diameter and should be picked when firm. Continue control of cabbage worms and other pests. If this control cannot be maintained, remove and destroy or compost the stumps, because they serve as a breeding ground for diseases and insect pests.

Common%20Problems

Yellow or fusarium wilt is a relatively common disease that causes the leaves of plants to wilt and die. The first sign of the disease is yellowing and browning of the lower leaves. The plants are stunted before wilting occurs. Grow yellows-resistant (YR) or yellows-tolerant varieties. Most modern hybrids have this tolerance or resistance bred into them.

Blackleg and black rot are two diseases that cause severe losses. The plants may be stunted, turn yellow and die. Blackleg is named for the black cankers on the stem. The taproot often rots away. Black rot can be recognized by large, V-shaped, yellow-to-brown areas in the leaves, starting at the leaf edge. The veins turn black. Soft rot usually follows black-rot infection.

Control is essentially the same for blackleg and black rot. Both diseases are spread by seed, transplants and insects. Buy seed that has been hot-water treated to kill the disease organisms. Do not buy transplants that are wilted, are an unhealthy shade of green, or have black spots on the stems or leaves.

When you find diseased plants in the garden, collect the leaves, stems and tops; and burn or dispose of them. Do not put diseased plants into the compost pile. Avoid cultural practices (crowding, overwatering, planting in poorly drained soil and inadequate insect control) that support the disease organisms of black rot and blackleg. If possible, grow black-rot-resistant varieties.

Questions%20&%20Answers

Q. What can I do to prevent my cabbage heads from splitting?

A. Splitting is caused by the pressure of excessive water taken up after the heads are solid. Cutting the roots (spading on two sides of the plant) or breaking the roots (lifting and twisting the head to one side) can often reduce excessive splitting or bursting, but it also damages the plant and requires that the head be harvested relatively soon.

Q. What causes cabbage to develop seedstalks rather than solid heads?

A. Cabbage plants "bolt" (form premature seedstalks) when they are exposed to low temperatures (35 to 45 degrees F) for extended periods. Such chilling may happen if plants are set out too early or if an unseasonable blast of cold assaults the garden. After the plants have stems as large as a pencil, they are subject to this "cold conditioning," that initiates the flowering response.

Q. What is flowering cabbage?

A. Nonheading varieties of cabbage (similar to flowering kale) have been developed for ornamental uses. They have colorful white, pink or red rosettes of leaves surrounded by green or purple outer leaves. Most colorful during cool fall weather, they should be started in early summer to midsummer and set out with fall and winter plantings of regular, heading varieties of cabbage. Flowering cabbage (and flowering kale) are edible as well as ornamental.

Q. Why do butterflies fly around my cabbage plants?

A. Those butterflies (white or brown) are probably the moths of cabbage worms. They lay eggs on the plants. The eggs hatch into the worms that cause considerable damage unless controlled. Most control strategies are aimed at the developing larvae rather than the mature moths themselves.

Q. What causes large, lumpy swellings of my cabbage roots? The plants also are stunted.

A. Swellings and distorted roots on stunted, wilted plants may be symptoms of clubroot disease. This disease is caused by a fungus that remains in the garden soils for many years once it becomes established. It is spread by movement of infested soil and infected transplants. Other related cole crops (like broccoli and cauliflower) also may become infected. If you suspect that you have clubroot disease in your garden, ask your local Extension office for help. If, in fact, you have clubroot in a location, destroy infected plant parts (including the roots) and for at least 4 years avoid planting any member of the cabbage family there, including radishes, turnips and ornamental relatives of cabbage.

Selection%20&%20Storage

Harvest large, unsplit heads of green cabbage. Look for tight, heavy heads, free of insects and decay. Fresh, uncut heads of cabbage can be stored in the refrigerator for up to two weeks. Cover loosely with a plastic bag or use perforated bags. Do not wash cabbage before storing, the extra moisture will hasten deterioration.

Green cabbage — Green cabbage is sometimes called Dutch White. The outer leaves are dark green and the inner leaves are smooth and pale to medium green. If you plan to eat the cabbage raw, use within a few days. Cabbage that you plan to cook can be stored in the refrigerator for about two weeks.

Savoy cabbage — Crinkly, with waves of blue-green leaves, Savoy cabbage is a beautiful sight growing in the garden. These thin, richly flavored leaves are ideal served raw in salads or cooked. Cooked Savoys do not have the strong sulfur odor of green cabbage. Savoy only keep for about 4 days in the refrigerator so buy it when you plan to use it.

Red cabbage — This variety is usually smaller and denser than heads of green cabbage. The flavor of red cabbage is slightly peppery and it is very susceptible to color change. Cook red cabbage with vinegar (or other acidic ingredient) or it will turn an ugly blue-gray color. Always use stainless steel knives and cookware when preparing red cabbage to prevent color changes.

Nutritional%20Value%20&%20Health%20Benefits

There are literally hundred of varieties of cabbage. The most popular varieties in the United States are green cabbage and bok choy. As with broccoli, cabbage is a cruciferous vegetable and may reduce the risk of some forms of cancer including colorectal cancers. Cabbage is also high in beta-carotene, vitamin C and fiber. Other substantial nutrients in a half cup cooked cabbage include the following.

Nutrition Facts (1/2 cup cooked green cabbage)

Calories 16
Dietary fiber 2.9 grams
Carbohydrates 3.6 mg
Vitamin C 18.2 mg

Preparation%20&%20Serving

Cabbage is king of the cruciferous vegetable family. Sadly, many think of cabbage as an odoriferous and unpleasant vegetable. Cooked cabbage has been wrongfully accused of smelling-up kitchens and hallways everywhere. But don't blame the cabbage, blame the cook. The notorious odor problem is a result of over cooking. Cabbage contains isothiocynates that break down into smelly sulfur compounds during cooking. The reaction is even stronger in aluminum pans. The longer the cabbage is cooked the more smelly the compounds become. The solution; a brief cooking time. Cook just until tender and use stainless steel pots and pans.

There is another adverse effect associated with cabbage — gas. Bacteria that live naturally in the intestinal tract degrade the dietary fiber (indigestible carbohydrates) in cabbage, producing gas that some find distressing. In spite of this unpopular side effect, cabbage offers huge benefits that cannot be ignored.

One medium head (2-1/2 pounds) of green cabbage yields 9 cups shredded raw and 7 cups cooked. The top portion of the cabbage head is more tender and shreds easier than the bottom. If it is practical, cut the head horizontal and use the top, raw in salads and slaw and use the bottom half in cooked recipes.

Home%20Preservation

The most popular and successful method of preserving cabbage is pickling. Kimchee and sauerkraut are fermented, pickled products which take days to make. Both are made by immersing shredded cabbage in a salt solution strong enough to kill off pathogens while allowing beneficial bacteria to grow. Follow the instructions precisely. If too little salt is used, the cabbage spoils; too much salt prevents fermentation.

Small Scale Sauerkraut

This recipe is very easy, and it does not take all day and a bushel of cabbage. You can make 2-3 quarts of sauerkraut from one medium head of green cabbage. Spices such as juniper berries, dill seed and garlic can be added to the cabbage, if desired.

  • 9 cups shredded green cabbage
  • 1/4 cup pickling salt
  • 2 to 3 quart size jars

Trim dark, limp outer leaves and wash the cabbage.

Remove the central core. Using a food processor (slicing blade not grating) or a kraut cutting board, thinly shred. As you slice, measure 9 cups into a large nonreactive bowl.

Sprinkle salt over shredded cabbage. Using clean hands, mix well.

Let stand at room temperature for 2 hours. In the meantime, sterilize jars. (To sterilize jars, place them in a large pot, cover with warm water and bring to a rolling boil. Boil hard for 15 minutes. Leave jars in hot water until ready to use.)

Rinse, drain and rinse again.

Pack wet cabbage into sterilized quart jars.

Pack (using a wooden spoon or pestle) firmly and keep packing down until liquid rises to cover the top of the cabbage. Spices may be added between the layers of cabbage. Leave at least one inch of head space at the top of each jar. More space is okay.

Wipe away any stray pieces of cabbage not under the liquid inside the jar. Crumple a large piece of plastic wrap and force it into the jar to exclude air from reaching the cabbage in the space left inside of the jar. Use more than one piece if necessary. Seal loosely with two piece medal canning lid but (do not tighten screwband).

Place the jars in an area where the temperature stays at 69-72°F. This is the ideal temperature for fermentation. Check the sauerkraut every few days for froth. There should be no froth if plastic is keeping air away from the cabbage. If froth forms, remove it with a metal spoon and place a fresh piece of plastic wrap in the jars.

Fermentation should cease in 2-4 weeks. The sauerkraut is ready when no more air bubbles are at the surface of the cabbage. The smell will be pleasantly pungent and pickled.

If sauerkraut is too salty, rinse it just before using. Rinse only the amount you intend to use.

Store the remainder in the refrigerator. It will keep for several months.

Recipes

Cabbage flavor is compatible with many herbs and spices. Steamed cabbage can be seasoned with anise, basil, caraway and celery seeds, dill, mustard, fennel, nutmeg, oregano, black pepper, savory and tarragon.

Braised Green Cabbage with Garden Vegetables

If you are lucky, the cabbage, green bell peppers and onions will all come from your garden. This recipe can be cut in half by using only half a head of cabbage.

  • 1 head green cabbage (about 2 1/2 lbs), shredded
  • 1 medium onion, chopped or 4 green onions chopped with green tops
  • 1 medium bell pepper, cut into 1/2 inch squares
  • 1 teaspoon crushed red pepper flakes (optional)
  • 2 cloves garlic, chopped
  • 1/4 cup olive oil or peanut oil
  • 1 cup water or chicken stock
  • salt and pepper to taste

Have all ingredients ready before you start to cook. Remove any decaying outer leaves and wash cabbage; remove core. Remove dark green leaves, cut away tough ribs, roll together into a scroll and cut across into thin shreds. Set aside. Cut cabbage into quarters and shred thinly. Set aside separate from dark green outer leaves. Chop onions and bell pepper and set aside. Peel and smash garlic cloves with side of knife, chop coarsely, set aside.

Use a large (5 quart) stainless steel Dutch oven or pan with lid or use a nonstick surface wok. Heat pan over medium high heat for a few seconds until hot. Add oil to hot pan, immediately add onions and bell peppers and stir for about one minute. Add shredded dark green cabbage, stir for another 30 seconds. Add crushed red pepper and garlic, continue to cook and stir for 15 seconds. Do not allow garlic to brown. Add two handfuls of cabbage stirring for about 30 seconds, continue adding cabbage and stirring at 30 second intervals until all of the cabbage is in the pot. Add water or chicken stock, cover immediately and continue cooking for 10 minutes. Stir occasionally to keep from sticking. Add more water if necessary. When cabbage is done, almost all of the liquid will have cooked away.

Makes six servings.

Savoy Slaw with Buttermilk Dressing

This slaw can be made using all green cabbage or any combination of green, red and Savoy.

Buttermilk Dressing

  • 3/4 cup buttermilk
  • 1/2 cup mayonnaise or low fat mayonnaise
  • 1 tablespoon sugar
  • 2 teaspoons grainy mustard
  • 1/4 teaspoon celery seed

Combine all ingredients in a pint size jar or small bowl and refrigerate. The dressing can be prepared up to three days in advance.

  • 9 cups Savoy cabbage, thinly shredded
  • 1 cup red cabbage, thinly shredded
  • 1/2 cup grated carrots
  • 2 scallions, chopped include green tops

Mix vegetables together in a large bowl. Toss with hands. Add dressing, toss using two spoons, refrigerate. Makes six servings.

 

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Growing Lettuce in the Home Garden

HYG-1610-92

Marianne Riofrio

An ever-expanding selection of greens for salads in the supermarket, as well as salad bars popping up in nearly every restaurant, is a reflection of the new health-conscious eating habits sweeping the United States. Several types of lettuce can be grown in the home garden adding variety, texture and color to the family diet.

Lettuce varieties can be loosely categorized into four groups: crisphead, butterhead, leaf, and romaine or cos. Each group has its own growth and taste characteristics.

Types of Lettuce

Crisphead lettuce is probably the most familiar of the four. It is characterized by a tight, firm head of crisp, light-green leaves. In general, crisphead lettuce is intolerant of hot weather, readily bolting or sending up a flower stalk under hot summer conditions. For this reason, plus the long growing period required, it is the most difficult of the lettuces to grow in the home garden.

The butterhead types have smaller, softer heads of loosely folded leaves. The outer leaves may be green or brownish with cream or butter colored inner leaves. There are several cultivars available that will do well in Ohio gardens.

Leaf lettuce has an open growth and does not form a head. Leaf form and color varies considerably. Some cultivars are frilled and crinkled and others deeply lobed. Color ranges from light green to red and bronze. Leaf lettuce matures quickly and is the easiest to grow.

Romaine or cos lettuces form upright, cylindrical heads of tightly folded leaves. The plants may reach up to 10 inches in height. The outer leaves are medium green with greenish white inner leaves. This is the sweeter of the four types.

Suggested Cultivars

Crisphead

·                Mesa 659 (fall), Ithaca

Butterhead

·                Bibb

·                Salad Bibb

·                Summer Bibb

·                Buttercrunch

·                Tania

·                Tom

·                Thumb (miniature)

Leaf

·                Salad Bowl

·                Grand Rapids

·                Black Seeded Simpson

·                Slobolt

·                Oakleaf

·                Green Ice

·                Prizehead

·                Red Sails

·                Lollo Rosso

·                Ruby

·                Red Fire

Romaine

·                Valmaine

·                Parris Island Cos

Climatic Requirements

Lettuce is a cool-season vegetable and develops best quality when grown under cool, moist conditions. Lettuce seedlings will tolerate a light frost. Temperatures between 45 F and 65 F are ideal. Such conditions usually prevail in Ohio in spring and fall. Seeds of leaf lettuce are usually planted in the spring as soon as the ground can be worked. Butterhead and romaine can be grown from either seeds or transplants. Due to its long-growing season, crisphead lettuce is grown from transplants. Transplants may be purchased or started indoors about six weeks before the preferred planting date.

Soil Requirements

Lettuce can be grown under a wide range of soils. Loose, fertile, sandy loam soils, well-supplied with organic matter are best. The soil should be well-drained, moist, but not soggy. Heavy soils can be modified with well-rotted manure, compost, or by growing a cover crop. Like most other garden vegetables, lettuce prefers a slightly acidic pH of 6.0 to 6.5.

Cultural Practices

Since lettuce seed is very small, a well-prepared seedbed is essential. Large clods will not allow proper seed-to-soil contact, reducing germination. Lettuce does not have an extensive root system so an adequate supply of moisture and nutrients is also necessary for proper development.

Fertilizer and lime recommendations should be based on the results of a soil test. Contact your local Cooperative Extension office for information on soil testing. As a general rule, however, apply and work into the soil three to four pounds of 5-10-10 fertilizer per 100 square feet of garden area.

Seed may be sown in single rows or broadcast for wide row planting. Wide rows should be 12 to 15 inches across. Cover the seeds with 1/4 to 1/2 inch of soil. Water carefully but thoroughly. Several successive plantings of leaf lettuce will provide a more continuous harvest throughout the growing season. Leave 18 inches between the rows for leaf lettuce, and 24 inches for the other types. To achieve proper spacing of plants, thinning of lettuce seedlings is usually necessary. Thin plants of leaf lettuce four to six inches or more between plants depending on plant size. Butterhead and romaine should be thinned six to ten inches between plants. Finally, crisphead transplants should be spaced 10 to 12 inches apart in the row.

An organic mulch will help conserve moisture, suppress weeds, and keep soil temperatures cool. If weeds do become a problem, either pull by hand or cultivate very shallowly to avoid damage to lettuce roots. Planning your garden so that lettuce will be in the shade of taller plants, such as tomatoes or sweet corn, in the heat of the summer, may reduce bolting.

Insect pests and diseases can occasionally cause problems on lettuce. For proper identification and control recommendation, contact your local Cooperative Extension office.

Harvesting

All lettuce types should be harvested when full size but young and tender. Over-mature lettuce is bitter and woody. Leaf lettuce is harvested by removing individual outer leaves so that the center leaves can continue to grow. Butterhead or romaine types can be harvested by removing the outer leaves, digging up the whole plant or cutting the plant about an inch above the soil surface. A second harvest is often possible this way. Crisphead lettuce is picked when the center is firm.

The author gratefully acknowledges James D. Utzinger, on whose original fact sheet this is based.

 

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